Publications des agents du Cirad

Cirad

Developing a geographical indication for Arabica coffee in Bali : Description of the "Terroir" of Kintamani

Mawardi S., Wibawa A., Avelino J., Perriot J.J., Jacquet M., Sautier D., De Taffin G., Sallée B., Lelong C., Ribeyre F.. 2005. In : 20th International Conference on Coffee Science, 11-15 October 2004, Bangalore, India. Paris : ASIC, p. 922-928. Colloque Scientifique International sur le Café. 20, 2004-10-11/2004-10-15, Bangalore (Inde).

Coffee is in the throes of a crisis caused by surplus production, which has led prices to drop to an all time low. Specialty coffees are weathering the crisis better, among them, the specified-origin coffees. Indeed, their flavour characteristics make them original products that fetch a higher price, as they are much sought-after by roasters and consumers. However, despite of the emergence of these new markets for the specified-origin coffees, there is no real guarantee on the origin at any level of the coffee sector. The Geographical Indication (GI) is a sign that guarantees the origin of the product, the way it has been produced, and consequently its quality characteristics. We think that GI could be applied to coffee. The development of a GI is mainly based on the identification of the terroir. Terroir is a French word, which is difficult to translate to English. A terroir is a system of complex interactions between a set of operations and techniques practised by man, a cultivated plant and a physical environment to be exploited by a product on which it confers specific original features (Saiette et al., 1998). That means that the physical environment is not the only element to be taken into account in defining a terroir. Man is another key-word: terroir is the expression of a culture and a social organisation. Kintamani arabica coffee, from Bali, has a great potential for a GI. (1) All the activities of the Balinese from the Kintamani Arabica producing area derived from Hindu philosophy of Tri Hita Karana. This philosophy led to a farming system in which chemical fertilisers and pesticides are not used. Kintamani Arabica coffee is produced by generalised organic practices. (2) People is organised according to a specific structure: the "Subak Abian". The "Subak Abian" is in charge of social and religious life. It is also an economic entity which regroups the growers. The "Subak Abian" has the potential to be the basis of the organisation which will support the GI

Mots-clés : coffea arabica; café; provenance; appellation d'origine; qualité; indonésie; terroir

Communication de congrès

Agents Cirad, auteurs de cette publication :